Thursday, November 16, 2017

Present ideas for crafters - mixers!

Yesterday, we made some suggestions for gifts you could give to your favourite crafter. I can't believe I forgot all about mixers! Click here for another post on ideas for presents! 

When it comes to hand mixers, I like to have one that has loads of attachments. When I'm teaching at Voyageur Soap & Candle, we use Black & Decker hand mixers that have whisk or beater attachments. These things are so fast, we only use one beater at a time!

I've also been using this inexpensive Hamilton Beach mixer that came with four beaters and a whisk. It's a very powerful one.

I have a Kitchenaid Architect 9 speed mixer that has a blending rod, which is awesome as a propeller mixer, as well as whisks and beaters. (See it here at Best Buy in Canada.) I love this one so much. It's much slower to start than the Black & Decker, but it's powerful as heck. It's ideal for things like making an oily gel with Sucragel AOF, which requires a propeller mixer, ane one of the gels I've been using lately...can't remember which one!

Oh, and we also have a Kitchenaid stand mixer, which is great for larger batches and things like emulsified scrubs or whipped butters that need to be mixed for a while.

It's helpful to have both a hand mixer type thingie and an immersion blender. Stick blenders are high shear mixers, and some emulsifiers like Olivem 1000Simulgreen 18-2, and Varisoft EQ 65 require high shear to come together. You'll also want high shear for gelling agents like Siligel or to incorporate lovely things like Penstia powder.

I hate hate hate immersion blenders as they're so hard to clean, but they're a necessary evil. Is there something I can use that'll make clean up that much easier? Thank goodness, yes! I'm in love with this MiniPro Mixer from Lotioncrafter*.

It's way more powerful than the little mixers or drink foamers I've purchased in the past, and it's super easy to clean up by whirring it in a container of soapy water.

As a note, I know some of you will write to me saying that it's easy to clean immersion blenders. It's not. My husband usually cleans them for me as I have such a hard time with them, and he notes that last time, it took three Q-tips to get it clean! 

This MicroMini™ Mixer from Lotioncrafter* is super powerful, but so small you can get it into a bottle to mix all those annoying powdered extracts and other things.

I tried to get an action shot of this mixer, but it's hard for me to take pictures and mix and not spill all over my workbench!

I love this little "Deluxe Cordless Mini Mixer" from Candora Soap* (Ontario) as it comes with a few little attachments, which come in super handy when you have to change from an immersion attachnent to a whisk attachment quickly.

Which one do you use the most? Which one do you prefer? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Please note, none of these are affiliate links, and I receive nothing if you click through or purchase anything about which I write on this page or this blog. I am sharing this information as these are things I love! 

Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Christmas present ideas for the crafters in your world - stuff for your workshop

Everyone I know tells me it's hard to shop for me as I make everything I want, so I thought I'd share a list of things you could buy for the bath & body crafter in your world.

I wrote about this topic a few years ago, and thought I'd update it for 2017. Please note I provide the links to online shops as a courtesy. None of these are affiliate links and I receive nothing if you click through and buy anything. 

Heating and holding and melting solids slowly is easiest in a double boiler, and I've been using this Rival Fondue Pot as my double boiler for more than 11 years now. My favourite feature is the dial that allows me to choose my temperature, so I can boil the heck of something, then turn it down before the water starts jumping out of the pot.

I can fit two 1 litre beakers or two 500 ml Pyrex jugs in it, which is more than enough for my needs in my workshop.

Canadian Amazon link
Canadian Walmart link
American Target link for the Oster fondue pot

A tiny scale that weighs to 0.1 grams or 0.01 grams. I've used a Salter diet scale from London Drugs for years, but the last few I've had were ruined during classes when someone poured melted butters or waxes on them. I've moved to this little scale, Smart Weigh ZIP300 Ultra Slim Digital Pocket Scale with Counting Feature, 300 by 0.01g, which I found on Amazon for $18.99.

You could also go into a hydroponic or head shop and get a very accurate scale there!

I think pH meters are essential pieces of equipment for those of us who want to move beyond using the basics to make facial products, hair care products, and more. I've done some testing of a few meters - which you'll see on November 27, 2017 - and the two I like the best are the PH-200 from HM Digital and Jenco 630, but both of those will run you around $100 Canadian. For a less expensive one, consider the Etekcity - the yellow one in the middle - for about $30.

Check out Amazon or your local hydroponic shop to find some of these things.

A nice lab notebook where they can keep all their notes. I make my own as I really like Doane paper but don't like their books, but you can get someone a really nice book with dot grid or graph paper that opens flat as it's a serious pain in the bum to have to hold something down when you have a mixer in your other hand!

Do you have ideas to share? Make a comment or two below!

Monday, November 13, 2017

Question from Patreon: How can I make a shower gel concentrate?

In the September Patreon Q&A, Sally asked: How can i make a shower gel concentrate?  I want to be able I want to make a large batch using some sci which takes a long time to melt, then dilute and add a different fragrance when I want say 300 mls of product. Do I just melt and mix the different surfactants using little or no water?

This isn't directed at you, Sally, but I don't understand why people think melting SCI (sodium cocoyl isethionate) is so hard. It isn't. You just need to choose the right surfactant to help dissolve it. You can add some anionic surfactants like disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. You could add an amphoteric surfactant like cocamidopropyl betaine or cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. Or you could add some non-ionic surfactants like polysorbate 20 or 80, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.

My first choice is always cocamidopropyl betaine because it increases the mildness of the surfactant mix! (As a note, I'm calling it cocamidopropyl betaine instead of coco betaine because they are, in fact, two different products. It's a pain to type, but it's a good thing to be accurate!)

When melting SCI in a double boiler, you want to melt it only with the surfactant that can help it dissolve best. (I wrote a post on this a few weeks ago, so check it out here.)

As a note, if you're using the powder - I'm using this version from Windy Point Soap (Alberta) - it doesn't need heating for things like shampoo bars, and only needs quick melting in a liquid product.

Also, why are people using so much SCI as the primary surfactant when it really isn't that water soluble? Don't get me wrong, I love this surfactant so much, but you're lucky if you can get 10% in a formula without it solidifying. And you can't do that with a non-powdered version very well. You can see the results of using SCI noodles in a body wash in this post.

Related links:
Chemists' Corner discussion about SCI
Clariant's data sheet on their versions of SCI (I use Hostapon 85, which is very easy to melt)
Excellent article on the solubility of SCI - I encourage you to read this science-y article as it's really interesting. 

Okay, back to the question at hand. You can make a shower gel that you can fragrance later on in two ways.

1. You could make a concentrate that doesn't contain water by making up something like this formula - I love this body wash, but there are so many different versions on this blog - without the water bits.

37.5% water
5% SCI
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
20% LSB (or other anionic surfactant of choice)
10% aloe vera
3% glycerin
3% condition-eze 7
2% hydrolyzed protein

2% panthenol
1% fragrance or essential oil
1% liquid Crothix (may not be necessary!)
0.5% to 1% preservative
colour, if desired

I've worked out the formula without the water, fragrance, colour, and Crothix thickener. The total is 60.5%. I divided each ingredient by 60.5, then multiplied by 100 to get the percentage. So I divided 5% SCI by 60.5% to get 0.0825. Multiply by 100 to get 8.25%. 

8.25% SCI
24.8% cocamidopropyl betaine
33% LSB or other anionic surfactant of choice

16.5% aloe vera
5% glycerin
5% cationic polymer, like honeyquat or polyquaternium 7
3.3% hydrolyzed protein

3.3% panthenol
0.8% liquid Germall Plus

This would be quite thick. You could add water to the mix - somewhere between 30% and 40% - as well as Crothix to thicken, if necessary, and a fragrance oil at 1% or so.

2. Find a formula you like. Make it in a big batch, then store it until you want to fragrance it. (Related link here in the FAQ.) I do this all the time as I like to change my body washes or shampoos with the seasons. (Right now, I'm all about the oatmeal, milk, and honey as it smells like marzipan!) Remember that fragrances can affect the clarity and viscosity of surfactant blends, so if you choose something that thins it out - like those that contain vanilla - you'll need to thicken it up with some liquid Crothix at the end.

Related posts:
Surfactants & fragrances - viscosity
Surfactants & fragrances - clarity
Fragrances and our products

Related posts on using SCI in liquid products...
Experiments in the workshop with polyglucose/lactylate blend
Ridiculously moisturizing body wash with esters
Formula for a 3-in-1 shampoo, body wash, and conditioner
Orange & honey hand cleanser with SCI
And there are more on the blog if you do a quick search for them.

Other related posts:

Sunday, November 12, 2017

I have removed all the charts from this blog - updated on November 12, 2017

I have removed all the charts I created for oils, butters, preservatives, and more as well as all the free PDF tutorials and handouts as I'm tired of seeing people using my work without linking here or giving me credit. These charts are the result of a lot of reading and researching. The three newest ones I had planned to share on emulsifiers, extracts, and cosmeceuticals have been in progress for at least 18 months.

You will not see any charts on this blog again for download. 

To respond to the people who have been saying that I'm trying to make money from my charts - so what if I am? These are my charts, and I can do what I like with them. Don't I give away enough? Don't I deserve to be paid for my time, my work, my writing? 

The three companies distributing my e-books - Voyageur Soap & Candle, Windy Point Soap, and Lotioncrafter - are the only ones allowed to share these charts with the e-books or during classes. I send them out with e-books, too. These are the only ways you can access them at this time.

If you see someone sharing my charts on a web site, blog, or forum, or sharing them in a Facebook group, they are doing this without my permission and against my very clear requests that anyone wanting to share the charts link directly to the blog to download them. No one has permission to share these charts publicly. No one has permission to host them anywhere but on this blog. No one has permission to use these charts in any classes they may be offering. 

My dad used to say it only takes one bugger to spoil it for everyoneThese people are some of the buggers...

All Sorts of Soap - I have written repeatedly to her to remove the charts, but they're still there.

Eat Live Wear - I have written to them repeatedly, but they're still there. It's nice to know she likes my work so much, she's plagiarized great swaths of it.

The Root & the Vine - this one seems to be by the same person as Eat Live Wear, with big swaths of my work copied and pasted as well as hosting the charts.

There are - sadly - many many more, and I will be posting their names here as I encounter more since writing to them directly does nothing.

I can't believe I have to say this, but the materials you find on this blog and in my e-books are my work, and you do not have permission to copy them and sell them, use them in your classes, host them or post them on your website or blog or Facebook group. You can link to my work or quote sections of it, but you cannot use my formulas, write ups, charts, or other materials in your paid classes, online courses, blogs, and so on. (If you want permission, write to me.) You cannot share formulas or writing you find in my e-books or e-zines. You cannot share materials from my paid Patreon subscription.

Copying my work, using it to make money, or hosting my charts or PDFs aren't ways of showing me you like what I do - it's theft, and I call you out as a bugger who spoils things by being a taker. You are the reason things go behind paywalls, why people like me feel taken advantage of or get burned out offering things for free. You're trying to get credit and money for work you haven't done, and that's a scummy thing to do. 

I'm sure you know about the plagiarism by Marlene Daniels of Soapconscious earlier this year, but there's so much more theft of my work going on from a course being taught that has copied and pasted my work to blog writers who think they're disguising my formulas and/or writing but don't know enough to know how to alter them so they aren't identifiable.

I know you're doing this, as do so many readers who have written to me. I ignored it for a while as I didn't have the energy to fight back with the hell I've been through in the last year. You don't know me well enough to know how true this is: My mom said the only thing more dangerous than an angry Susan is an angry Susan who knows she's right, and I'm done waiting for you to give me credit, pay me, or take down my material.

Okay, it's safe to come out now... :-)

Friday, November 10, 2017

Question from Patreon: Is there a limit to how much carbomer can be used in a lotion?

In the November Q&A on Patreon, Sawyer asked: Are there limits to how much carbomer can be used in a oil in water face cream? It seems to be a common ingredient in face lotions, and I love the idea of a cushiony lotion, but when I try to emulsify my gelled water phase with my oil phase the result is a separated mess. 

Great question! There really isn't a limit, apart from not using so much that it becomes a big Jell-o-y mess. Having said that, I think that we can use too much, as you'll see in the next few examples.

If you look at this one, Velvet Care Lotion, you'll see that they're using 0.25% Ultrez 20 in the heated water phase, which seems like a tiny amount, but it is enough to give us that cushiony feeling we want.

This one, In-Shower Lotion, has 0.30% in the heated water phase, while this one, Party Time Shimmering Cream, has 0.40% in the heated water phase.

The lotions to which I've linked above suggest that the Ultrez 20 is sprinkled over the surface of the water phase, which is heated to 65˚C to 70˚C. The sodium hydroxide (neutralizer) is added after the two phases are combined, but when it's still hot.

So how much can we use? Here's what the company suggests...

Recommended polymer use level is formulation dependent. For surfactant-cleansing applications with low-to-moderate surfactant actives 0.8% to 1.0% is recommended. For use in emulsions and gels, 0.3 - 0.7% is recommended, depending on electrolyte content. Processing instructions are simple.
  1. Sprinkle polymer on surface of water and allow to self-wet.
  2. Begin gentle agitation.
  3. Keep agitation to a minimum (to avoid air entrapment) while adding remaining ingredients to formulation.
  4. Neutralize: can be pre- or post-neutralized (depending on the needs of the formulation).
What we can see is that we don't need much to get the effects we want, so I'd suggest starting with 0.30% in the heated water phase with 0.69% 18% lye solution or 0.45% triethanolamine and see if you get what you want. Add the Ultrez 20 to the heated water phase, and add the neutralizer in a separate phase after you have added the heated water phase to the heated oil phase as per the examples above.

How did I come up with those numbers for the TEA or lye? For this and much more, please check out this post on Ultrez 20! 

So the short answer is that although there isn't really a limit to how much you can use, there's definitely a suggested usage rate of 0.3% to 0.7% for Ultrez 20.

I've just realized in writing this that I've never shared my formulas in which I've used Ultrez 20 and Sepimax ZEN in a lotion! I'll have to fix that soon! 

If you're interested in learning more about my Patreon feed, please click here and see what it's all about.

Thursday, November 9, 2017

Question from Patreon: Will my oils be diminished by heating and holding?

In the November Q&A on Patreon, Ingrid asked: I understand the heat and hold process when making lotions and creams. Can you please tell me if I do this with oils such as pomegranate seed oil, red raspberry seed oil and evening primrose oil, will any of their properties be diminished, or are they 'tough' enough to withstand heat and hold? 

We know that heat isn't the best friend of oils, and that we keep them in a cool, dark place to slow down the process of rancidity. (Don't forget, you can keep them in the fridge or freezer to slow it down even further.) So why can we heat them to make products? Because we aren't exposing them to extreme heat for that long - 20 minutes is a pretty short period of time and 70˚C is well below even the lowest smoke points for oils. We are reducing the shelf life a titch by doing this, but it's not that significant.

As well, our oils all have very high smoke points or the point at which they start smoking when heated. Even the unrefined versions of oils need need to get to 107˚C or 225˚F before you start doing some damage to them.

The short answer is that I've never met an oil that couldn't handle heat, so you can heat and hold any oils.

Related post:
Heating & holding our ingredients

If you're interested in learning more about my Patreon feed, please click here and see what it's all about.

Friday, November 3, 2017

From the pages of Patreon: How do I emulsify silicones and oils?

In the Q&A thread for October on Patreon, Lisa asked: I’m trying to emulsify silicones and oils. They keep separating. No water phase. Just silicones and oils. 

Silicones and oils don't mix. Although we consider them both oil soluble in lotions - for instance, when we are thinking about emulsifying something in a hair conditioner or a facial moisturizer - they really aren't, so they'll separate when combined.

We generally think of our ingredients as being
a) hydrophobic, or water hating
b) hydrophilic, or water loving
c) lipophobic, or oil hating
d) lipophilic, or oil loving

But there's a third category of ingredients that are siliphilic - silicone loving - or siliphobic - silicone hating. Silicones are hydrophobic, lipophobic, and siliphilic. They prefer to hang out with other silicones away from water and oils.

As an aside, you've probably read that dimethicone is considered a barrier protectant ingredient. How does that work? "It is the lack of solubility in oils and water that makes dimethicone a barrier when applied to skin."

When we create an emulsion or get things to combine that don't want to combine, we need a surfactant with one end of the molecule that loves water and the other end of the molecule that loves oils. We call these emulsifiers.

What the heck is an emulsifier and why is it so necessary? An emulsifier is something that can make water and oil play nicely with each other. We know that oil and water don't mix, but we can make them mix by using an emulsifier and using heat, chemistry, and mechanics to make that lotion stay together. If we don't have an emulsifier, we can make oil and water mix temporarily - think of salad dressing and how we shake it - but that combination won't last long. Using a chemical emulsifier with heat and a lot of mixing makes for a more stable emulsion. (A chemical emulsifier should have a water loving head and a fat loving tail and they bring the water and oil together.)

When we make an emulsion that includes silicones, we are actually creating something with three phases - water phase, oil phase, silicone phase - that could be more unstable than one with just water and oil. It's not hard to create something that works well - take a look at any number of my hair conditioner formulas using Incroquat BTMS-50 to see how simple it can be - but we definitely need an emulsifier of some sort to mix these things together. 

Related post:
Silicones and the HLB system

The problem with something that's just oils and silicones is that I can't find something to bring just those two things together or something with an oil loving end and a silicone loving end. Generally we have something like Lotioncrafter's Serum SE to make something with water, a small amount of oil, and silicones.

So what can you do? It might be easier to choose a silicone that can be combined with oils or esters. Something like regular old dimethicone 350 cs doesn't stay combined with carrier oils, but an elastomer might work.

What's an elastomer? "An elastomer is a polymer with viscoelasticity (having both viscosity and elasticity)..." (reference) The silicone molecules are linked with other silicone molcules to create a more viscous silicone, which can range from the scoopable loveliness you see in the picture above of Optiblur, to something very thick that has to be cut. They're used to film form in things like lipsticks, create that soft silkiness we like in make up primers, or smooth down our cuticle and prevent frizzies in hair are products.

For instance, Lotioncrafter is carrying a silicone elastomer called OptiBlur™ that can be combined with all kinds of oils and esters.

  • 20% Optiblur™ Elastomer is miscible with 80% caprylic/capric triglycerides, isododecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, cyclomethicone, or phenyl trimethicone
  • 80% Optiblur™ Elastomer is miscible with 20% phenyl trimethicone or cyclomethicone, but will separate with 20% caprylic/capric triglycerides, isododecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate. 

What this means is that you can mix 20% of this ingredient with 80% caprylic/capric triglycerides (also potentially known as fractionated coconut oil at some vendors), and it will remain mixed.

Something like Lotioncrafter's EL 3045 (INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) might also be a good choice as it "is an excellent anti-syneresis (anti-weeping) agent in water in oil emulsions and anhydrous systems. Picture this product as a fluid-containing sponge. The sponge is the silicone copolymer network and cyclopentasiloxane is the fluid. This silicone sponge allows its carrier or fluid to travel in and out, and can be receptive to other cosmetic ingredients. As a result, it holds oils or liquid in the external phase reducing syneresis."

You could use something that might make it easier to incorporate cyclomethicone or dimethicone into a product, something like phenyl trimethicone, but I'm not sure how much to use yet.

The other alternative is to make a solid product. I've been making a lovely lotion bar that contains dimethicone and cyclomethicone for years, and it has never wept or separated. A balm might work as well.

Or you could accept this will separate and needs to be shaken before every use.

So the short answer is - I don't know. And the longer answer is that I still don't know, but there are a few ingredients that will make it easier to keep them together.

If you want to learn more about silicones, check out this free e-book by Anthony O'Lenick, who is a master of silicones. 

Related posts:
Making a water-in-silicone serum with Lotioncrafter Serum SE

Why use silicone in personal care applications, part one by Anthony O'Lenick
Silicones in personal care products
Selecting the perfect silicone for your formula

Monday, October 30, 2017

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas: Whipped butters

Is it? It's not even Hallowe'en yet! But for us crafty types, we need to start planning early! If you're a soaper, your busy season started in August to allow for cure times. For the rest of us, if we're ordering ingredients on-line, we should be awaiting our packages as I write.

If you don't believe me, try going into your local supply shop on a Saturday. It's a madhouse! A madhouse! 

If you're new to making your own products, it's not the best idea to try something for the first time a week before you plan to give it. You need to be able to see how it changes over time. Does the fragrance fade? Does it morph into something weird? Does the colour change? How does your preservative hold up over time?

Make small batches. Try 100 grams to 200 grams to start. You will have some failures from which you can learn a great deal, and so it's nice if you don't end up having to throw away every ingredient you've ordered.

If this is your first handmade Christmas, stick to things that don't contain water so you don't have to worry about preserving. You can make all kinds of lovely things from wax tarts and rolled beeswax candles to whipped butters to bath bombs, and more!

Join me over the next little while as we look at a few things you could make for a holiday or birthday present this year!

These are super easy to make and often only require three ingredients - a butter, a liquid oil, and a fragrance or essential oil.

This vanilla latte coffee butter is super easy and only requires coffee butter, cocoa butter, a liquid oil, and your fragrance/essential oil. You can get a mica to colour it, if you wish. You can try all sorts of variations - pumpkin spice, hazelnut, cappucino, peppermint, and more!

You don't need to add a preservative to a whipped butter as it doesn't contain water and won't be exposed to water.

Choose an oil with a long shelf life. Don't choose something like grapeseed oil or hempseed oil, which have 3 month shelf lives, as they'll be rancid before you know it. You could add Vitamin E as an anti-oxidant - it isn't a preservative to prevent contamination, but can retard the rancidity of the oils - but if you're making a small batch with a long lived oil, you don't really need to do this easier.

Check out this post that includes a download link for my oil comparison chart. Or read more about oils in the emollients section.

You cannot use coconut oil or babassu oil as the base for a whipped butter as they have a really low melting point - 24˚C or 76˚F - which means they can easily melt and leak all over your purse, bathroom counter, car seat, and so on.

Get the ingredients and make some trial runs with small batches this week or next and watch how they do over time. Do they melt? Do they still smell nice? Do they feel nice on your skin? And so on. Keep great notes, so you can make what you like and never make what you hate again.

Related links:
Newbie Tuesday: Post with formula as well as links for the series on whipped butters
Newbie Tuesday: Creating formulas!
Back to basics: Whipped butters - formulas and ideas for modifications
Newbie Tuesday: Information on whipped butters

There are quite literally dozens of formulas on this blog for whipped butters, so do a few searches to see what turns up!

Did you make something? I'd love to hear of your adventures, thoughts, and comments. If you hate it - let me know what you made and we'll figure something out for you. If you love it - share your joy!

Sunday, October 29, 2017

Pumpkin spice latte lotion with Penstia powder

We've had some fun with coffee butter over the last month. We made a whipped vanilla latte coffee butter for National Coffee Day in September, and made a pumpkin spice latte with Aristoflex AVC last Thursday.

I thought I'd alter Thursday's formula to include one of my new favourite ingredients, Penstia powder (INCI Name: Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer). The suggested usage rate for these silky, soft, creamy spheres is 3% in the oil phase to reduce tackiness and increase slip and glide. It absorbs oil well, so you can use it in make-up or cleansers to absorb sebum for oily skin types. We use high shear to incorporate it into our products, which means you want to use a stick or immersion blender or MiniPro Mixer.

As an aside, I'm finding that using these in an Aristoflex AVC lotion reduces the potential feeling of stickiness and increases the feeling of creaminess. I've been using it in a lot of things lately - try it with Sepimax ZEN for that creaminess - and I'm loving them! 

Penstia powder is super light and airy, so it has to be measured by weight as 1 ml isn't equal to 1 g in any way. This does mean you may need to get a smaller scale, but it's worth it. You can use something like the Salter diet scale I found at London Drugs that weighs to 0.1 grams or this little scale I found at Amazon.

I can't tell you the name of it as I don't remember, and I can't go into our order history as Raymond is already ordering birthday and Christmas presents for me, and I might ruin the surprise.

In this formula, I added it at the end of the lotion making process and mixed with my tiny mixer until it looked creamy.

80.5% distilled water
3% propanediol 1,3
2% sea kelp bioferment
2% panthenol (powder or liquid)
3% bamboo extract (liquid)

4.5% coffee butter

0.5% pumpkin patch, gingerbread, vanilla, or hazelnut cappucino fragrance oil or essential oil

1% Aristoflex AVC
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus

3% Penstia powder

Weigh the water soluble ingredients into a container. Mix the distilled water, propanediol 1,3, sea kelp bioferment, and bamboo extract.

Weigh the coffee butter into a small container, then heat until just melted.

Add the coffee butter to the water soluble stuff. (Do all of this quite quickly so it won't solidify!)

Add the fragrance oil, Aristoflex AVC, then preservative (Liquid Germall Plus) to the rest of the ingredients. Mix with an immersion blender or stick blender to get a good high shear mixer. After maybe 3 minutes, you're done.

Add 3% Penstia powder, then mix until uniform. Package in a cute pump bottle, airless pump (the white one is from Lotioncrafter), or a lip gloss tube (Windy Point Soap) if you want a titch to carry around in your purse. I find I need to use a small turkey baster or piping bag for the containers I used in the picture above.

You can use any FO (fragrance oil) or EO (essential oil) you wish as long as it is skin safe. Vanilla is lovely, as is gingerbread.

You cannot use a hydrolyzed protein in this lotion as it will lose viscosity.

All the ingredients I used you can find at Windy Point Soap in Calgary, Alberta. All but the bamboo extract and FO (fragrance oil) you can find at Lotioncrafter in Washington State, USA. I am not compensated in any way for mentioning these ingredients, and I receive nothing if you order from them. These are not affiliate links, either. I consider Michele and Jen to be good friends, so I like it when they make money, but I'm providing this information to you so you can get things to make this project. 

Have you made this? What did you think? What changes did you make? What will you try next time? Let me know what you're thinking in the comments below.

Thursday, October 26, 2017

Mmm...pumpkin spice latte lotion!

Check out this quick, cold emulsifier lotion using coffee butter! (I'm not able to type much due to my arm injury, so please do a search for the ingredients that you see underlined in these handwritten notes.)

A massive thank you to Lisa for taking the time to type all of this out for us so I can replace my messy, handwritten post. 

My best friend loves coffee, so I thought this would make a great quick lotion for her. I added a titch of pumpkin spice fragrance oil at the end to make it a yummy fall lotion.

I'm using Aristoflex AVC to make a quick, cold process lotion. I want to add some nice water soluble ingredients to hydrate dry autumn skin. I can't use electrolyte heavy extracts like aloe vera, so I'll have to find other ways to film form, like using sea kelp bioferment.  I'll add propanediol 1,3 as the humectant, as glycerin can fell a bit sticky when combine with Aristoflex AVC. (I don't find it sticky, but some do.)

Propanediol 1,3 is naturally derived substitute for propylene glycol that can be used at up to 20% in your water phase. It's a humectant that draws water from the atmosphere to your skin to offer hydration. It has a 9 to 12 month shelf life once opened. But I find it's a little lighter and drier feeling than propylene glycol. It kinda feels the way those microfibre cloths feel on my skin, a little too dry on its own, but lovely in combination with other things.

I always love panthenol to help hydrate skin, and I think I'll add bamboo extract (liquid) to soften skin and act as an anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory.

Aristoflex AVC doesn't emulsify huge amounts of oil, so I'm using 4.5% coffee butter and 0.5% Pumpkin patch fragrance oil, for a total of 5%.

Always use distilled water for the cold process emulsions as we want to start as clean as possible

83.5% distilled water
3.0%  Propanediol 1.3
2.0%  Sea Kelp Bioferment
2.0% Panthenol (Powder/Liquid)
3.0% Bamboo Extract

4.5% Coffee Butter

0.5% Pumpkin Patch FO (Fragrance Oil)

1.0 % Aristoflex AVC
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus

Weigh the water soluble ingredients into a container. Mix the distilled water, propanediol 1,3, sea kelp bioferment, and bamboo extract.

Weigh the Coffee Butter into a small container, then heat until just melted.

Add the Coffee Butter to the water soluble stuff. (Do all of this quite quickly so it won't solidify!)

Add the fragrance oil, Aristoflex AVC, then preservative (Liquid Germall Plus) to the rest of the ingredients.

Mix with an immersion blender or stick blender to get a good high shear mixer. After maybe 3 minutes, you're done.

You can use any FO (fragrance oil) or EO (essential oil) you wish as long as it is skin safe. Vanilla is lovely, as is gingerbread.

You cannot use a hydrolyzed protein in this lotion as it will lose viscosity.

You can use another butter or oil here too. Babassu oil is lovely.

Note: I an not paid off by the Babassu advisory council in any way! There isn't a babassu advisory council… But there should be.

Package this in a nice pump bottle for ease of use.

All the ingredients I used you can find at Windy Point Soap in Calgary, Alberta. All but the bamboo extract and FO (fragrance oil) you can find at Lotioncrafter in Washington State, USA. I am not compensated in any way for mentioning these ingredients, and I receive nothing if you order from them. These are not affiliate links, either. I consider Michele and Jen to be good friends, so I like it when they make money, but I'm providing this information to you so you can get things to make this project. 

If you'd like to see more ideas with coffee butter, join me on Sunday for a pumpkin spice latte lotion with Penstia powder or check out this whipped vanilla latte coffee butter we made last month!

Tuesday, October 24, 2017

Experiments in the workshop: "Magnesium oil" gel with Siligel

A few weeks ago, we met this new gelling ingredient, Siligel  I've made a gel with it and magnesium chloride, often called "magnesium oil" as it can handle up to 20% salts.

As I can't type, please see my handwritten notes below. Anything underlined in red is an ingredient you can find out more about on this blog.

If you're looking for Siligel in North America, I was very kindly given this ingredient by Lotioncrafter* so I could play with it! 

Saturday, October 21, 2017

More comments and thoughts...

Leave in conditioners that you find on this blog are supposed to be thin enough to spray from a mister bottle. (That's the one on the far right.) I'm suddenly receiving all kinds of questions about thickening them. They're supposed to be thin and have low levels of emulsifiers otherwise they're regular conditioners and will weigh down your hair.

Check out the hair care section of the blog for more information. 

Check out this post on a more complicaed leave in conditioner.

We heat and hold our anhydrous products because to help all the ingredients melt properly. Stearic acid has a melting point of 69˚C, so we need to heat and hold the recipe to ensure that it has time to melt. If we merely get to the point of having the ingredients melted - for instance, using a microwave - our ingredients might not be completely melted and integrated into the recipe. Even if we use cetyl alcohol - melting point around 49˚C - our butters contain a lot of stearic acid, so we need to get it up to about 70˚C and hold it to make sure that all the fatty acids in any ingredient melt properly. If you don't get it up to 70˚C and hold it, you can end up with unmelted stearic acid that can start to crystallize over time, hence the grains.

You can learn more about tempering your butters in this post.

Stop adjusting the pH of your lotions! Unless you're using something like AHAs or other acids, there's no need for it! I see people adding huge amounts of citric acid to products without testing, and it's not necessary!

Wednesday, October 18, 2017

Thank you all so much...

Thank you all so much for your lovely and thoughtful words about my recent post about taking a break. I feel so honoured that you think so kindly about me, and it means so much that you took the time to offer support and share your experiences. 

Raymond and I travelled this past weekend to a place my mother loved very much, and scattered some of her ashes here while we celebrated her life. It was a surprisingly lovely weekend considering the task at hand, and one I'm glad we could have together with few interruptions. 

I'm still taking a few steps back from the blog as I try to let my arm heal, but it's killing me not to write! I have so many amazing ingredients, formulas, and other things that I think are interesting to share, but I have to listen to the boundaries my body is setting and be patient lest this be a forever thing. 

Having said that, I tried a few hours at the laptop today to prepare my handouts for my classes at Voyageur Soap & Candle this weekend, and that took painkillers and a lot of ice, so I'm still in rest mode. (I'm writing things by hand so Raymond can type them out, but it's amazing how much pressure I put on my left arm to hold down my papers or notebook!) 

Thank you for all your suggestions and support. Hearing that it's okay to take a break or reduce my workload means so much to me, and it's what I need to help me process all of the last year and what's to come ahead. (Us counsellors are the worst at taking our own advice! Do you know how many times I've read and recommended, When The Body Says No?) 

I'm checking into the blog, Facebook, Patreon, and so on to keep on top your comments, messages, and suggestions, but it's hard to respond when I'm limited to one fingered typing on my device, so it'll still be a while before I can offer responses. I am sending out e-books during day time hours - from around 9 am Pacific time to around 5 pm Pacific time, so if you have donated for an e-book or paid or an e-zine outside of these times, please have patience. 

Have I mentioned how lucky I am to have readers like you? I really am....

Thursday, October 12, 2017

I'm not available for a bit...

I'm taking some time away from the blog to heal from an arm injury that has left me unable to type and to honour the anniversary of my mom's death last year. I will not be available through any medium from October 13th to 16th, so any e-book or e-zine purchases will not be sent via email until October 17th, around 9 am my time.

Please respect my boundaries around this time. I know you may be thinking to yourself, "Who wouldn't respect those boundaries?" How about the person who quit Patreon on the day my mother died and added, "Creator didn't engage with the audience as expected," because I had been taking care of my dying mother for months beforehand and had announced that I might not get the e-zine out in time? (I did get it out in time, but that person still left...)

This week alone I had someone call me at work - a number provided here for youth attending or interested in our programs, which I've removed  - and someone else ask me to call them long distance so I could offer them a free consultation. I know of at least four people who have been sharing the paid materials only available on Patreon in a Facebook group or with non-patrons, and I know at least two paid courses are using my materials and formulas without permission and without paying me. This is on top of so many bloggers, Redditors, and instructors I know who are using my formulas and written materials without crediting me or even thanking me, who are making money from advertising on their blogs or YouTube channels.

I don't know how else to say this and I am tired of writing this over and over again, so I'll just be blunt. I have written 2,900 free posts on this blog. I ask for nothing for providing them, except maybe a little kindness and the odd comment. I don't have advertising here or pop ups that fill the screen. I take no sponsorships. I make exactly nothing from these posts on the blog. I answer emails and comments, and offer you free consultations on a variety of platforms  if you provide me with what I need to help.

I've always said I'll write the blog as long as it's fun, and the only way I will continue to enjoy it is to set some pretty strict boundaries and maintain them. (My dad always said it only takes one bugger to spoil it for everyone, and I've encountered quite a surprising number of them this year. Such a sad thing to say...)  How can you help me do that?

If you find any of what I offer of value, please respect me as a human being and not ask for more from me than I'm able to give. When you can't respect my boundaries, you stop treating me as a person and start treating me as an object, as a means to an end, as an extra in your movie. Don't use my work as a way to make money for yourself. Don't slam me in Facebook groups, then ask me so sweetly for help or pretend you didn't say it. (You want to challenge something I've written? Do it in public in a kind way and assume it could be a great learning opportunity for both of us. From the number of you who love to say I'm wrong by noting the times I've admitted I'm wrong, you know I'm open to the idea of not being right as that's the only way we learn!)

Offer feedback on my formulas and write ups, share your happy stories and pictures with me. Let me know you're out there. Say "hi" to me at conferences and let's share a moment of joy over something we love! Greet me by name in messages and share yours. And respect that when I say I can't do something, that isn't a challenge to find a way around my "no".

And, if you can afford as little as $1 a month, consider supporting me on Patreon so I can continue to afford to offer this blog for free, and support other people whose work you like by buying their music or books, subscribing to their Patreon pages, and so on.

If you can't afford it, I completely get that. Contribute to this or any community by offering your thoughts, feedback, criticisms, and yourself to make it an even better community! 

Saturday, October 7, 2017

Weekend Wonderings: How much preservative to use in an emulsified scrub?

In this post, Using black cocoa butter in emulsified scrubs, Vintage Blue asked: If I'm reading this right the preservative goes into the mix before I add the sugar. So I only calculate the preservative based on the weight of the oil mix not the oil and sugar? Wouldn't i be short on preservative if preservative weight is calculated on the final weight of the product? I just want to make sure that my product is well preserved before giving it as gifts to friends.

I'm so happy you want to preserve your scrubs! When I first starting writing this blog, every time I wrote about emulsified scrubs I'd have people not wanting to preserve them, so it makes my heart so happy to see how times have changed!

When I make emulsified scrubs, I tend to use 1% Phenonip, a broad spectrum preservative with a suggested usage rate of 0.25% to 1% in our products. In the end, every 100 gram batch of my sugar scrub base eventually becomes around 240 grams of emulsified scrub as I love to add loads of sugar. This means that I'm using about 0.42% preservative, which is well within the suggested usage rate!

In the formula below, there aren't any serious botanical ingredients that could cause problems down the road, like powdered extracts, aloe vera, or clay, so using 0.42% will work well. If you wanted to add more to the product just to be on the safe side, total up your base plus your sugar or salt, then add 1% of that. So for 240 grams of my favourite scrub, I'd add 2.4 grams total.

10% emulsifying wax (e-wax, Polawax, or BTMS)
10% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
20% cocoa butter
56% oil - I'm using soy bean oil here
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance or essential oil*
1% Phenonip

Check out the post on this topic on how to make it! 

Related posts:
Water activity with sugar or salt scrubs
Debate: What kind of preservative should we be using with scrubs?

Friday, October 6, 2017

Stuff I thought was interesting in your comments...

In this post, Newbie equipment, Chinny asked: What are the cup-like things in the second picture? I guess they are heat proof?

They are! These are tri-corner beakers from Lotioncrafter*. I love them! They are great for heat or just mixing or looking awesome on my workshop bench. I have quite a few sizes - 250 ml, 400 ml, and 800 ml - as these are the sizes in which I tend to make things. (I just realized they have 50 and 100 ml versions, which I must own now!!!)

Are you curious about what's in the container? I've been experimenting with Siligel, a natural gelling agent that can handle loads of electrolytes. This is my magnesium chloride or "magnesium oil" gel, which I'll be sharing with you soon!

What's Siligel? I'll point you over to Lotioncrafter* or Formulator Sample Shop* to learn more about it now. I'll have a write up about it next week! Woo! In an unrelated bit of information, did you know that $10 subscribers to my blog on Patreon get a 5% off coupon for Lotioncrafter? That could come in handy if you're buying things there. Just saying...

In this post, Is emulsifying wax part of the oil phase?, Kirsten suggested: For beginners it might be good for you to clarify why cetyl alcohol is part of the "oils". I know when I was starting, that was very confusing as it does not appear to be an oil. 

Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol and is oil soluble, as is behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol. Anything that is oil soluble and needs to be emulsified in a lotion is considered part of the oil phase. This includes things you might find in the cool down phase, like Vitamin E, fragrance oils, and so on.

Anything that's oil soluble is part of the "oil phase" when we're calculating how much emulsifier to use, regardless of where we find it in the lotion making process.

It is not an emulsifier - it is something that has to be emulsified by the emulsifier in a lotion. It may help stabilize an emulsion - we see that with Simulgreen 18-2 - but it doesn't emulsify things. It may be used as a booster with conditioning compounds like Incroquat BTMS-50, but it isn't a conditioner on its own. In this same post, Debbie suggested we think of it as a thickener and emollient, and that's a great way to describe this ingredient!

Learn your INCI names if you're ordering ingredients! This is the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients names and it should be readily available when you buy an ingredient!
More on this topic
Still more on this topic

Just a few thoughts as I work my way through the comments!

Thursday, October 5, 2017

Why did I buy that again? Siligel

This is a neat new gelling agent that's considered green, eco-friendly, and natural. Siligel (INCI: Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Pullulan) can create gels, be used as a stabilizer in emulsions, suspend things like exfoliants in gels, and enhance skin feel. (They say it may be a substitute for silicones.)

It comes as a water soluble beige powder that we use anywhere from 0.3% to 2% depending upon the application. It has a 12 month shelf life, and it's hygroscopic, meaning it can draw water to itself so keep it well sealed with a few silica packages for good measure.

It can tolerate quite a lot of electrolytes at up to 20% - you'll see this shortly as I used it with magnesium chloride - as well as up to 15% alcohol. You can use it in facial products in which you might want to add hyaluronic acid, AHAs like glycolic acid, or salicylic acid as it can handle a huge pH range of 2 to 10. It can handle up to 2% oils, but it's not a great emulsifier.

The down side is that it can't really be used with more anionic surfactants (negatively charged) or amphoteric surfactants (like cocamidopropyl betaine) at more than 5% active matter or cationic ingredients, like Incroquat BTMS-50 or a cationic polymer, like Honeyquat or polyquat 7. It can be used with decyl glucoside and other non-ionic surfactants, like polysorbate 20 or 80 and caprylyl/capryl glucoside. (Remember to alter the pH there!)

It can take up to 24 hours to reach its final viscosity, so don't worry too much if you're finished working with it and it's still quite thin. The recommendation is to use high shear mixing - so using an immersion blender, stick blender, or one of these adorable mixers I have from Lotioncrafter or Candora Soap (Ontario) - rather than a hand mixer. (Click here for even more information on mixing with high shear.)

I'll be writing more about my new mixing toys shortly. I've been so busy with so many things that everything will be written "shortly". Sorry for over-using that term! 

I found I had to mix for around 10 minutes with the projects you'll see soon. With surfactants, you'll want to mix everything and add the foaming, lathery things at the end as you'll end up with a frothy mess!

Lotioncrafter* very kindly sent me a sample to play with, and I've been having great fun with it, as you'll see in the next few days. 

A few thoughts on how to work with and melt SCI and how to create a double boiler

Hi everyone! I'm up to mid-September in the comments, and I continue to work through them. Thanks for your patience. 

A few thoughts: Why does everyone think it's so hard to melt sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI)? If you pick the right version and couple it with the right surfactant - disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (more about that one soon...), sodium methyl cocoyl or oleoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl glutamate (more on that soon, or read about it now in my new e-zine) and others, which you can read about in the link for SCI.

Make up a double boiler - I use a fondue pot, but you can use a pot on the stove - and get the water boiling. Use as much water as you can without having it spill over the sides when you add the SCI container.

Reduce the heat so it's not splashing into the container, add your SCI and other surfactant ONLY in a glass container, and heat until melted. If you're using prills, it should only take 5 to 10 minutes at the most. If you're using noodles, it might take longer. If you're using powder, it isn't necessary to heat it at all!

What you see in this picture is the powdered SCI we used to make shampoo bars at Windy Point Soap in Calgary last weekend. We made these without heat as they dissolve nicely in room temperature surfactants. This version was done with C14-16 olefin sulfonate (Bioterge AS-40) and SLSa, and they turned out pretty wonderfully!

I've made shampoo and bubble bath bars with this powdered SCI on my own, in classes in Calgary, and with youth at our groups, and every time they turned out awesome!

When they are solid and have a day to cure, I can drop them from waist height!

What can you do if you don't have the powdered kind and have to heat it? 

Make a powdered version by putting your SCI in a coffee grinder.

Ensure you're using a surfactant that helps it melt well. See the list above and in the linked post about SCI above.

Melt only the SCI and the surfactant that helps it melt well in the container. More ingredients means more things to melt or heat, and it won't be all about melting the SCI.

Use loads of hot water in your double boiler. The higher up the sides you can get it, the better, as the part that isn't touching water will end up cooling down to the ambient temperature. You don't want the water to be roiling so it gets into your container, but you can have it quite hot. I generally have mine on 300˚F setting on my electric fondue pot's control dial.

Have fun formulating!

Wednesday, October 4, 2017

Question from Patreon: How does a mud cleanser clean your skin without surfactants?

In September Q&A for Patreon, Jaime asked: How on does May Lindstrom's Honey Mud cleanse your skin without a surfactant? Ingredients: Raw Honey w/Bee Pollen & Propolis, White Clay, Macadamia Nut Oil, Witch Hazel, Collodial Silver, Cocoa Absolute Oil, Sweet Orange EO, Ylang Ylang, Vanilla Co2, Cedarwood, Frankincense, & Myrrh EO

I'm going off on a tangent for a minute, then I'll come back to your question, I promise!

You remember how surfactants work, right? (If not, please click here.) Surfactants are wetting agents that lower the surface tension of liquids and lower the interfacial tension between liquids - in other words, they emulsify. In a shampoo, foamy facial cleanser, body wash, and so on, we use anionic surfactants to create a lathery, bubbly creation. In lotions, we use non-ionic surfactants in the form of emulsifying waxes to create an emulsion. In conditioners, we use cationic surfactants to condition, but they also create emulsifications - ever use Incroquat BTMS-50 as an emulsifier or use a conditioner only to cleanse your hair - which will remove the dirt and soil from your hair.

So lotions, conditioners, and anything that contains a surfactant will cleanse your skin. (This is how cream cleansers work.)

What does it mean for our skin to be clean? It means we remove sebum, bits of skin, dust and pollution, make-up, Buffalo wing sauce, custard, and everything else that ends up on our face at the end of the day.

Someone with dry skin may have a different definition of what "clean" means than someone with normal or oily or acne prone skin.

Which leads me - finally - to the answer, which is...There are a few ingredients here that might make certain skin types feel cleaner.

Clay absorbs oil from our skin, while citrus essential oils help with degreasing. The macadamia nut oil might offer some cleansing as per the oil cleansing method, while the witch hazel might act as an astringent. I don't know what the honey brings to the mix - maybe it acts as a lovely humectant?- and I am concerned that I don't see a broad spectrum preservative here when it contains water-soluble ingredients. (You had a question about colloidal silver, which I'll be addressing soon, I promise! I think they're using it here as a preservative.)

As a note, honey only preserves itself. Once we dilute it with all kinds of liquids, it doesn't work that way any more. 

As someone with oily, acne and rosacea prone skin, I don't think my skin would feel clean - which is to say, the sebum is removed and all that other stuff is removed - using a product like this. Someone with less oily skin might find it a godsend.

If you're interested in learning more about what my Patreon subscription feed offers, please click here! This question came from the September Q&A for Patreon!